By:
Chimera
Having recently put out a new survey, we thought it was high time to update you on what we implemented from your feedback.
Firstly, thank you to everyone who gave your feedback last year, and this year. We read every single response and consider each one carefully whether it is part of a consensus or not. Of course, we know deep down we can never keep everyone happy and that while some of you adore dynos, others think they are the devil’s work, and the crimp joy that some of you feel is in complete contrast to those who love a giant comp hold.
So, here’s what we have done, changed and implemented in the last 12 months:
Last year, the consensus was for more interesting holds in the lower grades, the oranges, purples and blues. We have bought in some dual texture blues that are completely different to anything we had in that colour, we have found some less juggy oranges to help create some different style climbs in that grade range and we found some new style purples too.
You were also loving the off-piste teal set last year, so we made sure to order in some more of those. You also asked for more large comp style holds, hence the new pinks that made a recent appearance.
The lead time on holds varies hugely, so that’s why some of these have only come in recently.
You asked for two things last year – the return of external setters, and more female setters. The latter was relatively straightforward once we took Abbi McDonald on as our Head Setter. We also make sure Amber Boulderstone is on plenty of sets, and our route setting apprentice is Amelia Mauve.
As for external setters, we have had plenty in across the last 12 months, from a range of locations. Lucy Ross, Roz Whiteley, Tom McTurk and Ian Cooper have all been in recently, and we’ve already booked some brilliant freelancers for our next comp too.
Always a tricky subject to tackle, some of you felt it was bang on, others said it was a bit stiff. Interestingly, a few of you wanted to do away with grades altogether, feeling the colour band gave enough insight followed by climbers grading themselves using the Toplogger app.
We did trial this, but most of you wanted grading back, so, it came back.
There were a few very good suggestions about the Comp Wall. You wanted more downclimb jugs, which we have added. We also try and add additional juggy routes the week after each set too, to make down climbing even easier.
The other thing you wanted was more obvious start tags. Hopefully our wooden ones combined with tape have cleared up any deceptive starting positions.
We have wanted to expand our training facilities for a long time, and finally were able to do so which is another thing you guys wanted to see. From adding the extra pull up frame downstairs along with the dip bars, to buying a bigger range of weights, a bench press and the medicine balls, hopefully you guys now have more of what you need to train even harder than you already do.
One of the most frequent comments last year was increasing our range of vegan options. We have done so, both in terms of treats, healthy cereal bars and added some savoury options. We really hope you are enjoying these, and we will constantly monitor and keep an eye out for new ranges to try.
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